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Make or Break: Don't Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success, by Dave MacLeod
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As Wolfgang Gullich said, “getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard”. Sooner or later, nearly all climbers get injured and it will be injuries that ultimately dictate how far you get in climbing, if you let them. Unfortunately, the data shows it takes over a decade just to get small proportions of medical research adopted in regular practice. Sourcing reliable and up to date advice on preventing and treating finger, elbow, shoulder and other climbing injuries is challenging to say the least. You need to be the expert, because there are so many strands of knowledge and practice to pull together to stay healthy as a climber, and no single source of advice to cover all of these. The book draws together both the cutting edge of peer reviewed sports medicine research, and the subtle concepts of changing your climbing habits and routine to prevent and successfully recover from injuries. It is a handbook on how to take care of yourself as a lifelong climbing athlete. By spanning the fields of climbing coaching, physiotherapy, sports medicine and behavioural science, it goes beyond the general advice on treating symptoms offered by sports medicine textbooks and into much more detail on technique and habits specific to climbing than the existing climbing literature base. You will learn how your current climbing habits are already causing your future injuries and what you can do to change that. If you are already injured, it will prevent you from prolonging your injury with the wrong climbing habits and rehabilitation choices. You will learn how the ingredients of prevention and good recovery come from wildly different sources and how you have been using only a fraction of them. Fully referenced throughout, the practical advice for diagnosis, rehabilitation and prevention of climbing injuries is drawn from up to date peer reviewed sports medicine research.
- Sales Rank: #88692 in Books
- Published on: 2015-02-10
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.25" h x .48" w x 7.52" l, .88 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 228 pages
Most helpful customer reviews
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
The climbing training book you should read first- before its too late ! =)
By f.s.
I've recently purchased the book (with author signature, yay!) and i've come to like it very much. I think it's the book the sport has been lacking for quite some time, as many of us climbers suffer their little (and big) aches and pains.
So before buying any of the 26 climbing books on the best campus board drill, you might want to give this book a look.
The book is divided in two parts. The first part deals with the general concepts of sports- and climbing injuries, e.g. understanding of pain, preventive measurements (proper body movement, decreasing excessive overloading of specific areas) or the currently applied measurements for acute- and long term treatment / rehabilitation.
The second part details common climbing injuries (e.g. shoulder impingement, finger pulley tear, golfer/tennis elbow). Each chapter covers a certain body part (fingers/hands, shoulders, elbow), and of course exercises for recovery are presented (probably the reason one buys such a book).
The chapters are based upon data from recent sports medicine research articles and i've found it to be quite up to date. Especially the first chapter reads like a literature review of recents sports medicine with a reasonably narrow focus on climbing related injuries. So there's also much more to learn than just avoiding crimping ! ;) But don't expect too many "that one time when my pulley snapped on that horrific E12 X scottish winter trad suicide storm mission expedition and i still pulled through" stories, although there are some anectodes.
The book is nicely illustrated with photos of the man himself performing exercises and with anatomical drawings. I think especially the photo sections could be more extensive, as for me it was sometimes hard to imagine exactly perform an exercise from just 1 still image and a small text. A few pictures with full range of motion would have been better in my opinion. However a physiotherapist or sports medic can surely easily clarify this. For more detailed anatomical drawings one can refer to a medicinal text book.
Overall, i like the style of dave's writing (can only reccommend "9 of 10 climbers..." by him), as it tries to give you a positive mindset to work constructively on an injury. For most of us, it will sooner or later become an issue, and i think with this book one can embark on the journey of recovery and actually know a little bit what one is doing, instead of the far too common "i dont climb now for 3 months and then i'll be fine..." ;)
Thanks Dave, cheer up!
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Fixed injuries I didn't even know that I had
By Stephen C. Swenson
Had high hopes for this book and it totally delivered. While not a comprehensive work on any single injury, this gives a great roadmap to physiology and outlines a careful, scientific approach to both injury prevention, diagnosis, and rehabilitation. With all of the "armchair science" floating around in the climbing world, this is a necessary and sobering alternative to the body of (mostly anecdotal) information extant both in the gym and on the web.
Maybe the most valuable part of the book was how Macleod outlines the conflicts of interest & common miscommunications between the patient and doctor. I've always been hesitant to seek medical opinion for this reason (I don't want to just be told, "Rest it for another X months and RICE it"), but feel confident about countering the (often justified) assumptions that the doctor may have about me going in to the appointment.
Get it. Totally worth the money.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Highly Recommend this for injury prevention and treatment
By Joe C
Great climbing book to purchase if you seek to prevent injury, or the knowledge to work through a current one. This book gives great detail on why just taking a few weeks off from an injury is not good enough. Fixing the route cause is more important. An example is golfers elbow. This is usually caused by locking off too much. By practicing and focusing on more dynamic moves, and incorporating stretches and eccentric lifts in this book; you can prevent reoccurrence. Taking time off will work until you start climbing again, at which time the issue will reoccur.
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